Here at Studio SQ we take our consoles very seriously, and if there is one thing that I can say for certain is that when the console is unhappy we all get pretty bummed.
Until recently our studio was the proud home of a much cared for and upgraded Trident Series 65. Last month we proudly passed it on to Tones on Tail Studios here in the Bay Area. One of the nice features of this desk is that it is simple in both its signal flow and in its circuit. When the console came under my care I realized that this feature made it a prime candidate for upgrade. In this blog post I discuss a variety of the upgrades we made on the Trident, however the concepts apply to many consoles in general.
I find that the best way to attack a project is from the power supply forward. For something like a recording console this is definitely the case. The power supply is almost always going to be the most expensive part of the build of any project. For this reason, it is not all that uncommon for companies to use power supplies that are very close to the current rating required for the project. (Think of voltage as the type of fuel and the current as the consumption at any given moment). In the case of the Trident Series 65 the end user is not afforded an excess of current by any stretch of the imagination. This is coupled with the fact that the design uses the lowest current opamps that are available.
After the upgrades described here you are going to need about a 3 amp audio voltage. Since this cannot be gotten from stock supply, my recommendation would be to just scrap the power supply that comes with the console and start over. To this end the trident series 65 needs +- 18v at say 3 amps, +5v at 5amps, and +48v at .5 amps or something similar. The +- 18v is for the audio op amps, the +5 runs the led’s and the +48 is for the phantom power.
When I rebuilt the power supply I forwent the +48 because the phantom power is switched on or off on the back of the console which is inconvenient, and because of our patch bay setup (and the number of ribbon mics we have in the locker) I just took that feature out and bought some external phantom power supplies.
In my case I found a linear bench supply that worked perfectly for the power requirements that I needed and met my price requirements, however it is simple to get the required supplies from Condor or a similar supplier on Mouser or Digi-Key. Once you have the new supply just take the female receiver off the old power supply and attach it to the new supply of choice and you should be on your way. I made a little interchange box that took in the cable from the new supply and terminated in the female connector from the old supply. Once this is all done test the new supply WITHOUT THE CONSOLE PLUGGED INTO IT and see what you have. If everything went to plan and the voltages look good, go put the power supply away, and move on to the next part.
After you have a good and stable power platform to work on the next thing that I would tackle would be the internal wiring. Our trident was from the beginning of the production run and, that being so, the wire had gotten old and brittle. It was not uncommon for the wires to break off of the Molex connectors and we would loose a feature in a channel, the master section seemed particularly fond of this activity.
In addition to the wire harness itself the Molex connectors in our console had gotten loose and corroded with age. We decided the best thing to do was just to replace them. It is pretty simple to redo Molex connectors, however it can suck as you have to take out many channels.
When we were inside the console we took the time to also clean off the connectors that are attached to an interface board at the bottom of the chassis. Since corrosion, even an invisible amount, can cause heat and excess current draw it is best to just clean all the pins. When you are redoing the wire harness in a console make very certain that everything is labeled and there is some way of you knowing where everything attaches, or you are going to end up with a huge headache later. If you don’t want to redo the wire harness throughout the console, it is a good idea to at least do the master section as it seems prone to wire issues.
With the chassis more or less under control it is time to start looking at channels. Whenever there is a amplification stage, interface, or fader within a channel strip there is an opamp behind it. The type of opamps used will have a large effect over the sound of the console as a whole. One of the problems with the stock Trident is that it uses TL071 opamps which have low current draw but, to me sound very sandy and indistinct.
The Trident does however have some nice features in the design that aid in upgrades. One is that it uses all the same single op amp throughout the console, and all the opamps are socketed. This means that you get a bulk discount on new opamps and no soldering is required, at least for now. In looking for new op amps I was in the market for something that I could get relatively cheaply, that would sound good and be fast acting. For my purposes I found the Texas Instruments Burr Brown OPA134.
There is definitely a spirited debate about what is the best audio opamp but I really liked what the 134 did for the sound of the Trident. I went ahead and replaced all the op amps in the entire console testing every few channels as we went along. After we finished and powered up the console we were all pretty amazed by what we heard. The console became clearer and much more open sounding while still retaining the punchy vibe that it had before. The eq also sounded much more clear and useable. The other very notable difference was that the headroom of the console vastly improved (one could run the console with the master meter pegged and no audible breakup).
After the opamp upgrade the console was drawing right around 2 amps from the audio supply with no audio passing through it. This was well within my 3 amp supply rail so time to move on.
Besides the opamps, the capacitors also have a large impact on the overall sonic imprint of a piece of gear. The capacitors are used to filter power, provide a backup of current for high draw events, separate dc from ac and filter unwanted low frequencies out of the signal. The Trident uses either 100uf 25v or 22uf 25v in almost all positions on the console, once again the bulk discount. There are many nice capacitors that can be used and they all come in at a different price point. It is up to you and your budget to figure out what you want to use. Check out http://tech.juaneda.com/en/articles/electrolyticcapacitors.html for thoughts on different capacitor brands. As long as you are going through the trouble of replacing the caps you might as well double the value of all of them. It will give you either more bass or more filtering, depending on which cap we are talking about, but either way why not.
You can de-solder the caps in a variety of ways but I found that a good solder wick works very well on the trident circuit board, as does a plunger style solder sucker. This is a step where it really pays to be careful. The trident circuit board was very thin and fragile to begin with and in my experience time has not done it any favors. My only other note on this would be to be extra sure to check the polarity of the caps when you put them in, you don’t want to blow anything up. When we replaced the caps we found that it was almost like re-opamping all over again. The image improved, the clarity increased, it got even more punchy and just generally sweet sounding. I was surprised that the console had so much more tone to give, but there it was.
All these things took us about a year to complete and all I can say is it was a year well spent. I don’t know how many days we actually spent on the console, but lots of the time was spent learning the hard way. I would think that if you didn’t have clients you could get it done in a couple of weeks. No matter what console you end up with you are going to end up needing to do at least some of this stuff. We just got an Otari Status from 1994 and I have already put in a new power supply and am working on a re-cap. Consoles just need care and if you are going to maintain, why not go for the upgrade. I hope that this can get you pointed in the right direction for your own console. Just remember to be careful go slowly and you can end up with a really great sounding and unique piece of gear.
- Jeremy